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The Hawaiians are credited with being the fathers of surfing, and are known to
have practiced the sport as early as the 15th century AD. The Hawaiian name
for surfing "He'enalu" - can be translated as wave sliding. During its early
history, surfing was taken as a sacred practice and only those with a high
social status could take part; in other words - Hawaiian kings and queens were
surfers. Ironically, today, surfing is seen by the general population as a
sport for those who have dropped out of society, the very opposite to how it
began.
In ancient times the art of surfing was a deeply spiritual affair for Hawaiian
people and surfing was not only recreational but a means for resolving
conflicts and training for the Hawaiian chiefs. The Hawaiian people had
rituals for building surfboards and the surfboards they built ranged from
10-16 ft made of solid redwood and the longer the board the higher your social
ranking. During the early days the Hawaiian's made two types of surfboards
made from the Wili Wili, the Ula and the Koa tree's.
The 'Olo' surfboard was ridden by the Chiefs or the noblemen usually between
14-16 feet and the 'Alaia' surfboard was between 10-12 feet in length and
ridden by commoners.
As a people living on a cluster of small islands in a very big sea, the
Hawaiians were not surprisingly fascinated by the ocean, and attached great
meaning to its moods and forms. In a similar way to which the Inuit are said
to have many names for snow, the Hawaiians also have hundreds of words to
describe the various forms of the ever changing sea.
Just as modern day surf bums insist on surfing as a lifestyle rather than just
a sport and thus devote great portions of time and money to the pursuit of the
waves, Hawaiians also found unfathomable bounds with the practise, as the
writings of Kepelino Keauokalani, a 19th Century Hawaiian Scholar, shows in
his observations of the local Hawaiian surfers:
"All thought of work is at the end, only that of sport is left. The wife may
go hungry, the children, the whole family, but the head of the house does not
care. He is all for sport, that is his food. All day there is nothing but
surfing. Many go out surfing as early as four in the morning: men, women,
children."
Such was the desire of the ancient Hawaiians for wave sliding that if the
distant storms didn't generate sufficient waves to ride, surfers with enlist
the help of a "kahuna" - a priest who would pray to the gods and ask for surf
to come to Hawaiian shores.
However, surfing was to move into a period of decline following the arrival of
Christian Missionaries who believed surfing was a hedonist act and a waste of
time. They adamantly preach against surfing's existence, and by the late
1800s, the sport had almost been completely exterminated. Had it not been for
a few hardcore surfers who continued to practise the sports and Hawaiian kings
such as David Kalakau, surfing may have died out all together.
However, the gradual decline of the missionaries influence allowed surfing to
breathe again, and by the start of the 1900s, surfing had not only regained
its former popularity in Hawaii, but was beginning to spread to other beaches
of the world. In the early 1900's the Hawaiians organized the Hui Nalu (surf
club) and competed in neighborly surf competitions with the Outrigger Canoe
Club. This drew a great deal of attention to the Waikiki surf shore, bringing
a revitalized interest in the sport, which had fallen out of favor in the late
1800s. Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic star in swimming, popularized the sport
further by traveling internationally and showing off his surfing style to
thrilled audiences around the world. He was favored by Hollywood elite; having
acted in bit parts in films and was always recruiting new surfers wherever he
went. He is credited with surfing the longest wave of all time in 1917, in the
popular surfing area now called Outside Castles in Waikiki. His 1000 meters
plus wave record has yet to be overtaken.
In the 1930s, the sport of surfing was experiencing a Renaissance. Tom Blake,
founder of the Pacific Coast Surf Championships that ended with the onset of
war in 1941, was the first man to photograph surfing from the water. Another
photographer and surfer named Doc Ball published California Surfriders 1946,
which depicts the pristine coastal beaches and good-time, relaxed atmosphere
of surf living. Surfing, although curtailed in the aftermath of WWII, revived
as always by the 1950s. Bud Browne, an accomplished surfer and waterman,
created the first 'surf movie' with his 1953 "Hawaiian Surfing Movie". This
inspired many photographers, filmmakers and surfers to continue documenting
the sport, culminating with is arguably the best surf movie of all time,
1963's "Endless Summer" by Bruce Brown. The film opened up the genre of the
surf movie and the art of surfing to non-surfing people, accumulating fans and
inspiring neophytes.
The first 'Olo' surfboard was ridden by the Chiefs or the noblemen
usually between 14-16 feet and the 'Alaia' surfboard was between 10-12 feet in
length and ridden by commoners.
Captain Cook witnessed natives surfing solid wooden surfboards when he visited
the Hawaiian Islands in 1777 and his diaries are the first official
documentation describing the art of surfing.
Later in the mid 19th century when the western/white missionaries arrived
surfing almost died out in the islands. At the start of the 20th century the
missionaries influence over the islands began to decline and Hawaiians along
with the new European and American settlers began surfing again. One of these
was George Freeth, who through his surfing, experimented with board design,
and cut his 16 foot Hawaiian board in half. Making the typical solid redwood
Hawaiian board of the time to around 6 to 10 foot long.
In 1926 one of the most famous names in surf history; Tom Blake designed the
first hollow surfboard constructed of redwood with hundreds of holes drilled
in it and was encased with a thin board of wood on top and bellow the board.
The board was 15 foot long, 19" wide, 4" thick and weighed 100 lbs.
This hollow surfboard eventually became the first mass-produced board in 1930s
due to it's weight and the speeds it could generate.
The end of World War 2 opened up new possibilities in surfboard design as many
new materials had become available through advances in technology. Fibreglass
and styrofoam were the most significant of these.
By the late 1920s, tourists from all over the world were booking into newly
built hotels in Waikiki in their hundreds, all eager to experience the world's
most famous beach and see the exotic "surf people" for themselves. Another 30
years on, and waves of American surf migrants began to arrive from California
in search of the renowned Hawaiian waves, that had reached legendary status is
surf circles.
In 1932 Balsa wood from South America became a popular material for building
surfboards. The new balsa wood boards only weighed around 30 to 40 pounds
apposed to the 90 to 100 pound redwood boards. Such a reduction in weight was
a major step forward in board design, and became more and more in demand.
The shortboard first came to the surf scene during the late 60's to early 70's
and the average length went from 10 to 6 foot, with an obvious reduction in
weight. These new boards allowed surfers to ride in the pocket of the wave and
Dick Brewer is credited with it's design. These new boards allowed faster,
more aggressive surf and more manoeuvrability. It was around this time that
the twin fin was created, apposed to just the one.
In 1966, Nat Young won the World Championships on a shortboard called 'Sam'
designed by George Greenough and Bob McTavish. This board allowed greater
performance style surfing with sharper turns and greater acceleration, which
kick-started the 'shortboard revolution'.
Now, surfing is a billion dollar industry, practiced across the world from
Iceland to Indonesia - but let's not forget those pioneering Hawaiian kings
and queens without which, the sport of surfing may never have been invented.
And now surfing spread throughout all media and Surfing Magazine was born in
the early 1960s by famous surf photographer, LeRoy Grannis. After that, other
publications cropped up bringing more information on the sport, equipment and
stars of the surfing scene. John Severson, an accomplished filmmaker and
photographer, created Surfer Magazine, originally called "The Surfer". These
publications brought advertising, professional surfing, surf culture and
publicity to the now very popularized sport.
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